We drove through the center of Ireland southwards. Using some small roads, we crossed an area where bog/peat is still mined. The large peat blocks were dry and feather light. Not much energy in them.
The first stop was the monastery ruins of Clonmacnoise on the bank of the Shannon river. The monastery was started in 548 CE. The old wooden structures have been replaced by stone ones starting in 909 CE. It was in use till 1552 when it was taken over to house an English garrison. Many of the monks from this abbey spread out over Europe to convert the pagans. The pope came over in 1979 to recognize this effort.
Further south in Roscrea we visited the castle in the middle of the town. Although it was open, we could only wander around the remains but not enter Damer House (ie without a tour). This is a large mansion built inside the castle remains.
Driving south from Roscrea, over many winding dual and single lane roads, we reached Kilkenny where we stayed at the city campsite
In the morning we walked into Kilkenny to visit the Castle and the St. Canice Cathedral.
The original wooden defense tower was built by Strongbow and subsequently upgraded in 1192 to a stone castle. Three of the 4 towers still survive. The Butler family owned it for the following 600 years and donated it to the city in 1967. Over the years it underwent many restorations and expansions. The interior was auctioned off to partly pay the family debt in 1937 after which the castle fell in disrepair. It has now been fully restored and refurbished with many of the original furniture.
St. Canice’s Cathedral was built between 1202 and 1285. The 30m round outside tower is even older (9th century). Like most churches it is on top of a hill and surrounded by a graveyard with many old and some new gravestones. Also, the building is completely restored with a new roof and restored stained glass windows which had been damaged during Cromwell’s siege of the city in 1640. The blackened outside limestone walls have not been cleaned up giving the Cathedral a spooky impression.
